It feels like only a few weeks ago that Kurono Tokyo released a new watch because it was. However, forget that watch as Kurono Tokyo has just announced the new Calendrier Type 1, and it’s a stunner.
Before we get into the specifics, I want to mention that this watch is a GHPG submission. Whether that will make the watch more valuable or not will be in the hands of the collectors.
A Kurono Tokyo watch means there’s a lot of noise. However, this will generate a lot more as we have plenty of new things to get noisy about: a new case, movement, dial and colourway.
It will not be a Kurono Tokyo watch without a story. The watch was inspired by a casual conversation over drinks between Hajime and a watch collector. The question is, “If you had to live on an isolated island, what would you take with you?” His book-loving friend said a novel by Haruki Murakami. Mr. Asaoka answered, “A watch” and he began to think about the functions that such a watch would need.
The case is a new design to fit the coin-edged bezel but also has to accommodate the Kurono DNA. The sides are mirror-finished, which I believe is similar to the Chronograph models. This finish will be free from distortion, and the owners can enjoy the same exterior reflections.
The movement is a first for Kurono – Miyota 9122. This movement is impressive because it has a centre second and a full calendar while maintaining a reasonable cost. This functionality is uncommon even in the swiss-made mass-produced ébauches.
The dial amplifies the “beauty of symmetry”, an essential element of the Art Deco style. Quoting from Kurono Tokyo,
the cylinder dial is designed to curve from the centre to the outer edge of the dial, and two dial layers are pressed together to create a three-dimensional effect. The numerals themselves are also purposefully printed in a raised format.
The colour is khaki which is a first for Kurono and, in my opinion, looks more excellent than the 34mm ochre. The khaki was chosen as the watch was created with adventures in mind. Quoting from Kurono,
“Blemishes accumulated are unique to the wearer and are a written record of his journey and adventures through life. Owners should spend their time on meaningful pursuits rather than worry about scratches. Hence the design embraces such blemishes, adds character, and looks better over time”.
However, I believe there’s more to this colour for the Japanese, as Sinn’s japan editions also used a similar colour. There’s more into khaki than meets the eye.
There are some more subtle differences, such as the sapphire crystal. The crystal is raised by 0.15mm higher than your standard sapphire box crystal to match the look of the acrylic glass of a vintage watch. Some elements are the same across Kurono watches, such as the hands and the strap.
The watch features a calendar, and such movements require more delicate care and setting. Kurono Tokyo has two recommendations for the Miyota 9122.
- Refrain from changing the month when the windowed date display shows the 31st.
- Refrain from changing the day of the week (Mon-Sun) and the windowed date display when the time is between 9:00 pm and 3:00 pm.
The Kurono Calendrier ‘Type I’ is priced at JPY 243,000 (US$1,787) and will be available on Thursday, 11 August 2022. This release is a limited edition run, and the deliveries will begin in mid-September 2022.
The watch will be available in the Japan Market at 6:00 PM JST, Thursday 11 August. Similar to other releases, a limited number will be reserved for local sale where only Japanese residents with valid residential addresses are eligible. The global launch will be on Thursday, 11 August 2022, at 11:00 pm JST
- (BST) London: Thursday, 11 August, 3:00 pm
- (EDT) New York: Thursday, 11 August, 10:00 am
- (GST) Dubai: Thursday, 11 August, 6:00 pm
- (AEST) Sydney: Friday, 12 August, 12:00 am
You can learn more about the watch on the official website.